The tiny village of Montramito di Massarosa (LU), not far from Viareggio, is the current “home” of skilled pizzaiolo Gennaro Battiloro, who makes an excellent Neapolitan pizza. This is a modern-styled venue with tables set up outside. The pizzas, cooked in a gas oven, recall the Neapolitan tradition with a nod to modernity in their dough and toppings. Don’t miss the marinara, an iconic pizza that needs to be tasted in order to assess the skill of any pizzaiolo. A wine list with a number of interesting labels and very honest mark-ups.