In Italy, when talking about dough, there is a before and an after Bonci. Gabriele argues about doughs and flours and arrives at a standard, perhaps unattainable for everyone, at the moment. Then when everyone concentrates on doughs, leavening times and flours, the National Bonci begins to think about pizza cheeses, how to treat each individual ingredient at its best. Today, the simple, spartan place on Meloria Street, is crowded at any time, it is one of the most visited destinations by all Italian and foreign gourmet enthusiasts. Amazing, crunchy but at the same time melted doughs, they become the basis of true gourmet cooking, always concentrating on the taste. The raw buffalo mozzarella pizza, mushrooms and raw ham is our pizza of the year because it tells us about the revolution that Gabriele has fought over the years: transforming a pizza that in the eighties was synonymous with low quality, into a real delight, treating the ingredients in the best way possible.