Like in Naples, in the leonardesque Milan dei Navigli. Berberè opens, and does not disappoint, and, actually, enjoys a popularity that replicated from the success of the brand. Few pizzas on the menu, but excellent in substance, and, especially, in the extreme care of primary materials. Archived in a few lines are the classics, where the territoriality of the ingredients is stressed, the ‘menu’ illustrates inviting combinations: escarole-Taleggio-fiordilatte-olives-lemon zest, for example, or speck-Gorgonzola-potatoes. Tempting are the ‘cicchetti’ and ‘piattini’, as is the wine and beer.