25° 50 Top Europe 2020
Vicoli di Napoli
How can you get lost between San Gregorio Armeno and Vico Fico al Purgatorio in London? Go to the heart of Stoke Newington to taste one of the best pizzas in the capital at “Vicoli di Napoli”. Once known as “Antica pizzeria da Michele,” the name has since been changed because of a legal dispute. The quality of the pizza has not altered though, and neither has the line you must stand in to get a table. The dominant color is blue in an atmosphere full of Neapolitan references: from the stylised drawings of the city center and of the Vesuvius, down to the true ode to the city with “Neapolitan art of pizzaiolo” written on the wall. But what stands out most is the wonderful wood-fired oven, tiled in a blue mosaic as if it were the sky itself.
The interior is cosy and informal, the room has various tables for 2 / 4 people and the courtyard offers additional seating when the weather permits. The pizza is a high-quality ruota di carro (when the pizza exceeds the perimeter of the plate), which is a rarity in London. The menu offers about ten choices, among which are the classic Margherita and Marinara. The Specials complete the selection, notably an interesting ‘nduja e friarielli. You may also personalize your pizza by adding extra toppings of your own choice. The wine list is short, and the selection of beers is limited, which just goes to show that the focus here is on a few top-quality products. A more attentive service could help to create a more satisfying experience for the fussy Londoner.