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From Via Sciaragazzali in Tripoli to Teramo along the Wine Route: Marzia Buzzanca’s journey

With her baggage overflowing with flavours, experience and products from Abruzzo, her next “destin(y)ation” on the Wine Route will be Termeno – the Bolzano province. From the second half of July Marzia Buzzanca will be leading the kitchen of the Hofstätter Garten, a restaurant, wine-bar and wine-cellar with its namesake estate and a Gewürztraminer cultivation as far as the eye can see. Here she will offer a pizza with speck, mountain pine and orange syrup in order to honor the territory which will be her home from now on.

 

Destiny would have it that her life was marked by a continuous stopping and starting. However, this would lead her on a course of decisive professional and personal maturity to a place which has, in its wine culture, the mark of an identity specified in its administrative definition. She is a cook, a pizza chef, a sommelier, and a winemaker. Here she will be able to weave together her knowledge and passion, doughs and ingredients. Having concluded her experience with Percorsi di Gusto, she will now welcome Aquila into her heart. At her table she will offer dishes and pizzas using first-class ingredients from Abruzzo, but will also make good use of the South-Tyrolean gastronomical traditions. She will do so by serving venison braised in pinot nero and served with a Bolzano sauce, or an apple strudel served with a saffron cream.

 

She is preparing for her relocation by carefully considering what she will be able to give to the customers she will meet within the South-Tyrolean mountains, an atmosphere that she became acquainted with during her time working at Canazei. She will be bringing her talent, that she developed both in the kitchen and at the pizza counter, to a presigious wine cellar. The dining area will give her the right inspiration and enthusiasm to be able to experience this new adventure fully. Ready to take her pizza to a new setting, she will do it with the refinement she has acquired, which results from years of different experiences.

“The pizza,” she says, “is popular. It is served with simplicity to everyone, and it tells the stories of different territories. Having refined my skills with Simone Padoan, I really admire the traditional Neapolitan and Roman pizza chefs. I am convinced that their differences render the product even more universally applicable, and that their differences enrich everyone. It is no help to anyone to claim the brand of the “pizza verace” (authentic pizza). If there is one thing which I truly believe, it’s that while the territory and the produce determine and shape the work of cooks, chefs, and pizza chefs, we mustn’t ever forget that we all come from the same boot (Italy).”

 

What she means has been translated clearly into her menu; Margherita yes, but there are many other pizzas which describe Italy and its streets. For example there is the Vitel tonné, Via XX settembre, and the Via Tre Spighe with pistachio mortadella. Every preparation is matched to a street, and the street represents movement, curiosity, and an openness to new ideas. It also evokes childhood memories. The name “La focaccia casalinga: Via Sciaragazzali – Tripoliis in honor of her father and the street where she lived in Libya. This is the country where she was born and which she left at the age of 7 when Gheddafi took power and ordered the expulsion of the Italians.

 

Hers was the last family to leave that land, and from that moment on, Marzia had two choices: to mourn her lost childhood or to reconstruct her life using the emotional experience of that division. Now that she is an adult, she reproduces that mood in her dishes, re-establishing the flavors of gold and copper-colored spices. Beginning with that imposed voyage, preparing things to eat was and is her way of telling her life story, but also of that yet to be lived.

 

by Laura Guerra


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